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Bangkok hardly sleeps: street-food stalls fire up on every soi, rooftop bars line the skyline from Sathorn to Sukhumvit, and Chinatown’s Yaowarat Road glows neon after dark.

The complete guide to Bangkok for food lovers and night owls — neighbourhoods, street food and fine dining, rooftop and cocktail bars, clubs, live music, where to stay, getting around, money, etiquette and safety.